Tam Coc - Bich Dong Loop

A peaceful ride through Ninh Binh’s countryside, connecting Tam Coc with the ancient Bich Dong Pagoda. This route takes you past rice fields and limestone karsts - the kind of landscape that makes Ninh Binh worth visiting by bike.

The Route

Ninh Binh itself is super mountainous - dramatic karst limestone mountains everywhere. But the roads surrounding it are completely flat, which is what makes it great for cycling. No hills to worry about on the routes themselves. Ninh Binh has become popular with travel bloggers as a cycling destination, and it’s easy to see why. The landscape is nice, and there are enough B-roads to avoid the main traffic.

The route connects Tam Coc (famous for boat rides through caves) with Bich Dong Pagoda, a three-tiered pagoda built into one of those limestone mountains. Along the way, you’ll pass through small villages, see water buffalo, and watch local farmers working in the fields. You’re cycling on flat roads with these dramatic mountains as your backdrop. Fun fact: Ninh Binh is sometimes called “Ha Long Bay on land” because of these limestone formations rising from the rice fields.

Why Ride It

The karst landscape here is pretty unique - super mountainous terrain with limestone peaks everywhere, but you’re cycling on flat roads around them. You get to see these dramatic mountains from ground level on a bike, which beats being stuck in a tour bus. The route takes you through areas that feel more authentic, away from the main tourist spots.

What surprised me about cycling here was the road safety. Vietnamese drivers don’t always have the best reputation, but in Ninh Binh they seem used to tourists on bikes. They don’t drive quickly (the narrow roads and corners help with that) and actually give you space when they can. I felt safer here than on some European roads, which was unexpected.

The combination of flat roads (surrounded by mountainous terrain), nice scenery, and respectful traffic makes this a pleasant ride. Early morning is particularly nice, when mist rises from the rice fields and the karst mountains create some nice silhouettes.

The Highlights

Tam Coc is where you’ll likely start, known for boat rides through three natural caves. The area is surrounded by rice paddies and limestone mountains - it’s been used as a filming location for several movies, which gives you an idea of how scenic it is.

Bich Dong Pagoda is a three-tiered pagoda built into a limestone mountain. The name means “Green Grotto” and it’s a nice spot to rest and take in the views. The pagoda was built in the 15th century and has three levels, each with its own temple.

Practical Tips

Bike Rental: Bike shops here cater to tourists, not cyclists. You might see a Trek frame, but everything else is usually cheap replacements and not well-maintained. For these flat roads though, they’re fine. Just don’t expect anything fancy.

Road Safety: The narrow roads and many corners naturally slow down traffic, and drivers are accustomed to cyclists. This creates a surprisingly safe cycling environment where you can focus on enjoying the scenery rather than worrying about aggressive drivers.

Best Time to Ride

The best time to cycle this route is during the dry season (October to April), when temperatures are moderate (20-25°C) and rainfall is minimal. Early morning rides are recommended to avoid the heat and to experience the beautiful morning light over the rice fields.

Spring (February to April) and autumn (October to November) are particularly beautiful, as the rice fields are either lush green or golden yellow, creating stunning contrasts with the limestone karsts. During the hot season (May to September), start very early in the morning to avoid the intense midday heat and humidity.